Travel Mumblings

June 18, 2008

Nazca, Arequipa & Puno

Filed under: peru — Tags: , , , , — paulparkie @ 13:18

We ‘ummed’ and ‘aahed’ about taking the huge diversion to Nazca for quite a while. The only thing of note to see there were the lines in the desert. The Nazca lines are a bunch of geoglyphs in the Nazca Desert, a high arid plateau that stretches more than 80 km. They are largely believed to have been created by the Nazca culture between 200 BCE and 700 CE. There are hundreds of individual figures, ranging in complexity from simple lines to stylized hummingbirds, spiders, monkeys, fish, sharks or orcas, llamas, and lizards. Admittedly they do look pretty cool, and I couldn’t think of anywhere else in the world where there were big-ass drawings in the sand… so be decided to go check them out.

june-24-paul-29The bus journey was mammoth and we decided to take the overnight bus to arrive at 6am the next day. The bus depot on arrival was manic. Touts trying to sell tours were all locked behind a gate shouting and gesticulating to us, trying to sell us their tour. It was actually completely intimidating, so Jayde and I pretending to ‘sort out our packs’ until they;d calmed down and dispersed a little. When we eventually left, a guy approached us and said he’d arrange a flight and accommodation for us. We were pretty tired from the bus ride, but he was pretty adamant that we go see the lines that morning.

We ended up just dumping our bags at the hostel and heading straight out to the airstrip. We got there about 7am. Still no sleep, or breakfast for that matter! Apparently we had to wait for the sun to burn of the early-morning haze. After an excruciatingly long wait, we finally took off in a 3 seater plane around 12 midday. The guy in front of me was sick almost straight away. Brilliant. We did get thrown around a lot being such a small craft, and we banked round each geoglyph twice, so I spent half my time just starring at the horizon trying to keep my stomach where it should be.

The ‘lines’ were pretty impressive, but to be honest, they weren’t worth the extra 700 miles we’d added onto to our trip to get here. The plane ride didn’t really offer up anything that we hadn’t already seen from pictures on the internet or in books. We were quite disappointed. We had planned on staying a couple of days in Nazi, but it really was lacking for anything else worth seeing. There was some kind of mummy museum this guy tried selling us tickets for, but it was an hours drive, and the thought of any more travel didn’t sit well with us. We made plans to leave the next day for Arequipa.

Arequipa is famous for it’s canyon, which is reputably deeper than the Grand Canyon. We were quite excited to get there and do some more trekking. However, after trailing around a bunch of trekking agencies it soon became clear that the Colca Canyon that Arequipa is ‘famous’ for is actually a further 100 miles (4.5 hour) bus ride away! Huh. So, after a quick lunch and chat about our plans, we decided our time could be better spent in Bolivia. Arequipa did have a  great Plaza de Armas though and we spent a nice afternoon just wandering the old city and not traveling! We made plans to leave the next day to Puno.

june-24-paul-76Puno sits on the North-Western shores of Lake Titicaca. It sits 3,812 m above sea level making it one of the highest commercially navigable lakes in the world. By volume of water it is also the largest lake in South America. So, it’s big. The town of Puno is slightly more Westernized than anywhere we’d been in a while… we even managed to have a beer in a bar and watch the football! In the morning we visited the floating islands which were pretty special. They’re basically just islands made from reeds. Pretty cool really. They showed us how they made them, and sang us a few songs and made us some bread. Apparently, each island (about 42 altogether) is a family group, and if they have any disagreements, then they just cut the island in half, and float away to find new moorings! Easy life hey?

june-24-paul-79We then took the boat 35km East to Taquille Island which seemed to take forever It’s narrow and long and was used as a prison during the Spanish Colony and into the 20th century, but now it’s just home to about 3000 Tackle people, who from what I can gather are governed by their own rules… and slightly communist ones at that! All the little eateries have to serve the same food on the same day and charge the same price, so that there’s no competition. And apparently (if I understood correctly), the different hats that each person wears is a sign of their ‘readiness to mate’… haha …. well at least, whether they’re married, single and desperate, single and happy etc. Strange, but I guess it saves the small talk! “Wow, hey… I see by your hat that you’re single and desperate! No way… me too!”

It was a pretty island though. We hiked from one side to the other and were collected by the boat for our return to Puno. The sunset was amazing. Like seriously one of the most amazing I’ve ever seen! We spent a couple of days in Puno, and it being our last stop in Peru, treated ourselves to a ‘posh meal’ on our last night, which I don’t think cost anymore than $5 each, including wine!


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